Postcards from the Road - Broome, WA

Days on the Road 107 Traveled 10,364ks Campgrounds 24
Temp 16 - 35°C Water Temp 24°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 22 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 |
Barramundi (under-sized) 1 | Golden Snapper 1 | Bluenose Salmon 7 | Silver Cobbler 2 |
Spanish Mackarel (28kg) 1 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1 | Prawn Rolls 3 | Barra Wings 1 |
Horse Rides 1 |

Under the waves we dove, saltwater splashing on our cheeks, smiles on our faces, jubilant to be swimming in the ocean again, after six weeks of staying safe being Croc wise. As we travelled further west along The Savannah Way, we took a detour north of Broome, up the Dampier Peninsula to camp at Lombadina; an Aboriginal community located on Thomas Bay, near Cape Leveque. A community inhabited by the Bard people; ‘Salt Water People’ - the ocean being pivotal in their lives as both a source of food and spiritual significance. Here white sandy beaches, pristine turquoise waters, and the freedom to walk the beach and swim was a wonderful welcome back to the coast.

It was a unique experience and a privilege to stay within this self-sufficient community and meet some of the Bard people. Early morning I went to the bakery to watch the community bread being baked in their one-hundred-year-old wood fired oven. There I met Bud, one of the grandsons of the matriarch of this community, Bud is both a chef and a fisherman, so we had a lot to talk about. By the end of the conversation, we’d agreed on some additions to a sauce in the mackerel pies he’s been baking and for my fisherman to join a fishing charter with him the following day in the open sea. It was a golden opportunity to fish on Bud’s boat on the other side of the reef, where dolphins dived, Humpback whales breeched, and large sharks chased schools of tuna. Little did I imagine that the fisherman would end up reeling in a 28kg Spanish Mackerel; a local record-breaking catch. Even Bud was speechless. Mr G elated.

Next destination for us was Broome. It had been as long between opportunities to dine out, as it had been between ocean swims, so on our first night we headed to Matso’s Brewery for a night out. I relished in ordering good food; juicy Exmouth prawns, Soft Shell Crab with a fragrant dipping sauce and Grilled Barramundi to share. It was so civilised and such a treat to be spoiled with table service and no dishes to wash. 

Old Sydney friends who now live in Darwin and holiday in Broome each year for a month to surf and swim, were here. We had organised to camp near to them for over two weeks, in a lovely, quiet camping ground not far from Cable Beach. It was glorious being settled in one place for an extended time, with the luxury of nowhere to be and friends who are almost locals to generously guide us. The indescribable colours of the landscape here will stay with me, and the magnificent expanses; in particular 4WD driving up Cable Beach to sit, walk, swim and fish, heading out to Gantheaume Point to picnic and paddle board and up to Coconut Wells to walk along the rockpools at low tide, were all mesmerising.

Taking in a flick at Sun Pictures, a semi outdoor cinema where jet planes literally fly overhead mid movie, strolling the weekend markets where a ‘mango thingy’ is a delicious and refreshing thingy indeed, enjoying fish and chips on sunset at Broome Fishing Club and amusingly, the discovery of Kimberley Camping store, which seemed to have everything we were lacking in our set up, whether we were aware of it or not, were amongst our favourite places to find.

The iconic camel caravans walking on Cable Beach, the glowing sunsets, the turtles on show from above at the Town Beach Jetty and the whales breeching and spouting on the horizon every day, were all a part of the Broome we experienced. The countless meals and laughter shared with our dear friends, has forged many fond memories. After six weeks in the heat of the outback, and three months on the road away from family and friends, Broome’s breathtaking beaches and unique coastline, where the red earth meets the translucent Coral Sea, was a timely tonic for us both.

Broome Bird Observatory we camped here for one night overlooking Roebuck Bay, a mecca for bird enthusiasts and a quiet place to camp - the unsealed road in is fairly congregated - be prepared.
Lombadina an indigenous community on the Dampier Peninsula, welcoming day visitors and campers. Fresh bread for sale Monday, Wednesday & Friday - various tours available; kayaking, mud crabbing, fishing.
Tarangua Caravan Park - Cable Beach, Broome where we settled for an extended break, excellent modern amenities, friendly, quiet campground. Highly recommend.
Matso's Brewery - good food and delicious ginger beer.
Spinifex Brewery - good pizza and craft beers, walking distance from our campground.
Sun Pictures Broome we saw a feel good movie, reclining in deck chairs with chocolates to share. Such fun! Book tickets online.
Broome Courthouse Markets are held in the beautiful Heritage listed gardens of the Broome Courthouse. Started over 25 years ago by a small group of locals wishing to trade local product, they have grown to become a major tourist attraction in Broome and host up to 115 creative stalls over the Dry Season. Trading every Saturday all year and Sunday from April – October. Try the 'mango thingy'!
Broome Fishermans Club located on the edge of the coast, outdoor dining Friday, Saturday & Sunday only from 4pm - really good battered fish & chips and a raffle ticket for fishing gear related prizes with every drink sold. 
Kimberley Camping everything you could possibly need, and things you never knew you needed available at this iconic camping and fishing supplies store. Thanks Guilio.

Postcards from the Road - East Kimberley

Days on the Road 84 Traveled 8,560ks Campgrounds 20
Temp 16 - 31°C Waterhole Temp 14°C Thermal Pool 34°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 22 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 |
Barramundi (under-sized) 1 | Golden Snapper 1 | Bluenose Salmon 1 | Silver Cobbler 2 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1 | Prawn Rolls 3 | Barra Wings 1 |
Horse Rides 1 |

Ochre red earth, layers of rusty red rock, chunky termite mounds and flame red mountain ranges. Olive green Spinifex grasses dot the plains, eye-catching Boab trees bulge and Kapok trees in flower add brilliant pops of bright yellow to the landscape. All this beneath cloudless blue, blue skies, these are the colours we see in the east Kimberley.
 
Crossing the border into WA is a buzz, we had made it. Biosecurity at the border to protect Australia from harmful pests, diseases and weeds from state to state, meant we surrendering any fruit, vegetables, honey and shellfish on board. In preparation we had eaten all relevant items, except the remainder of our honey which we had to handover.

At the first town we came to, Kununurra, we re-supplied our groceries stores, before journeying on out to Lake Argyle to camp for a few days. An immense man-made lake amid the mountains was a magnificent sight to behold as we approached. We had some restful days here by the lake, however the fisherman took the kayak out on the lake to explore (the lake being nine times the size of Sydney Harbour!) and he got a little bit lost, which was a big bit stressful for us both. For ten minutes we communicated via radio, to him everything looked the same, thankfully I spotted him through my binoculars from a lookout above the lake and was able to guide him back on track to the boat ramp. Oh my! He came back weary but with fish and I needed a lie down.

From Lake Argyle we drove on to El Questro Station, as we travelled towards the Cockburn Ranges it seemed like we were on set in the wilderness of a John Wayne western. The long, looming mountain ranges, the red earth plains, a backdrop to the formidable spinifex; the prickly heart of Australia dominating the landscape, and playing a crucial part in the spinifex, termite, lizard triangle* that exists in the Australian desert regions.
 
The Gibb River Road, a notorious section of off-road driving which crosses from the towns Kununurra to Derby and many see as a medal winning achievement (think 'I did the Gibb' t-shirts and bumper stickers) was before us. We spent time driving parts of ‘The Gibb’ from place to place, and the unsealed road we drove into El Questro Station saw us bouncing over corrugations, dodging rocky patches and potholes and churning through water crossings to gain access to the campground. It’s a hot dry place, with scarce shade in the campground and we based ourselves here to visit various gorges, water holes safe for swimming and lookouts to take in the colossal landscapes of the Kimberley.
 
Our 4WD skills were expanded as we climbed ridges and crossed rivers to see more hidden places, Pigeonhole Lookout and Saddleback Ridge Lookout were epic to be at, both in the middle of the day and at sunsets. On another mode of transport, I enjoyed a guided horse ride in the late afternoon through up and down the ridge right on sunset. That was a cool experience and I thought about my friend Maggie* and her horse Frank as I went. Emma Gorge and El Questro Gorge were favourites for us; beautiful, boulder scrambling hikes that rewarded us with icy, yet refreshing and pristine waterhole swims.

Our final night in the east Kimberley we free camped at the Pentecost River Crossing, where the fisherman threw a line in, while I built a fire on the sandy shore and cooked omelettes for dinner. The sun sunk low, and the night sky filled with a zillion stars, we dozed off comfy in our camper. A dozen nights in The Kimberley whet our appetite for more and the road west to Broome and other unique places to discover beckoned.

Lake Argyle Discovery Resort  An immense freshwater lake formed by damning the mighty Ord River, has created an amazing marine environment offering a wide range of adventures and activities that are based our of the Discovery Resort. We camped on a powered site, with a lovely infinity pool to cool off in and a restaurant and beer garden to enjoy.
El Questro Station  From deep gorges and majestic ranges to thermal springs, mud and salt-flats, rainforests and cascading waterfalls, everything the Kimberley has to offer is located across the property's 700,000 acres in the heart of the East Kimberley. It is a wonderful place to base yourself to explore this part of the Kimberley. Again we had a powered campsite for 5 nights.
Emma Gorge, Zebedee Springs & Horse Riding with Big Sky Horses
4WD to Pigeon Hole Lookout & Saddleback Ridge Lookout
Steakhouse & Cantina Dining on our final evening at El Questro we enjoyed pizza and drinks around the open fire as live music played.
Pentecost River Crossing Free bush camping on the Eastern side of the river, get there around 9am to claim a spot, camp well back from the river as it is a known crocodile spot.

A little extra detail:
* The real spinifex grazers however are termites; the triangle of spinifex, termites and lizards in the Australian deserts has been likened to the great African grasslands, antelopes and lions (etc). The mass of termites per hectare in the central deserts is greater than that of all other animals. Each spinifex clump has a tunnel opening beneath its centre. In one small area near Alice Springs there are 50 termite species. In turn this supports the world’s greatest concentration and diversity of lizards.
* My friend Maggie MacKellar writes about rural life in Tasmania and riding her horse Frank weekly at The Sit Spot.

Postcards from the Road - The Savannah Way, QLD & NT

Days on the Road 70 Traveled 7526ks Campgrounds 17
Temp 13 - 28°C Waterhole Temp 14°C Thermal Springs 34°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 22 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 |
Barramundi (under-sized) 1 | Golden Snapper 1 | Bluenose Salmon 1 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1 | Prawn Rolls 3 | Barra Wings 1 |

Hitting the milestone of two months on the road and we are done on the east coast. The time has come to head west traversing The Savannah Way; a 3700 kilometre route linking Cairns in Tropical North Queensland via the natural wonders of Australia’s tropical savannahs and the Northern Territory’s Top End with the historic pearling town of Broome in Western Australia’s Kimberley. In short, a blummin long way!

From Cairns we skipped through the Atherton Tablelands, visiting Mareeba for picnic supplies, a walk and a swim at Emerald Falls, an antique store in Atherton and a book shop in Yungaburra, then onto see Babinda Boulders and Millaa Millaa Falls. After a day of driving and stopping to see the sights, an overnight camp in Wooroonooran National Park at Henrietta Creek turned out to be a wet, miserable and leech ridden affair. Not good! Early morning, as we couldn’t wait to leave those leeches, we are back at it and drive through thick mist into Ravenshoe; a quaint town, acclaimed as the highest town in Queensland. As we go we pass by a couple of 24hr FREE camps with toilet facilities, located roadside, they are a revelation to us, and in hindsight would have been a better and drier option for our previous overnight stop. Next time!

The lengthy distance driving is tedious, but also useful time to listen to a couple of audio books and have quiet conversations together. The monotony of the long straight roads and frequent oncoming, car rattling, road trains, demands caution. We share the driving and allow the other to rest to beat the fatigue. Side of the road toasties in the fry pan at rest stops or purchased from roadhouses when we stop for fuel are our sustenance. They are a safe bet in these far-flung places where very little fresh produce is available.

Taking a one-hour detour down a corrugated, dusty road, we camp overnight at Cobbold Gorge. Here a late afternoon Stand Up Paddle through the gorge is peaceful, and a good night’s rest in our comfy bed, followed by a breakfast of boiled eggs with dippers and the last of our passionfruit supplies, sees us revived and refreshed. Our next stop will be another five hours driving away at Karumba Point, a seaside town on the coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria at the mouth of the Norman River. Fishing is big here, it’s the main reason people come to this remote place, year after year. The campground is brimming with characters, hard core fish chasers, mainly after Barramundi, their day revolves around the catch and the talk of their catch at the fish cleaning tables. I go there to fillet our catch of bream, but really to hear the stories. I’ve heard Barramundi wings, (often discarded when filleting) are delicious eating, I boldly ask around the tables “are you keeping the wings?” as the Barra filleting happens. “Do you want them?” one fella responds “I have plenty” he generously shares. Gratefully, I nod yes, and he obliges. Dinner that night is the second revelation of The Savannah Way.

The couple camping alongside us are endearingly friendly, she spots the fisherman’s’ crab pots stacked near our camper and is on for the chat about her love of mud crab. It’s a moment to return a favour after so enjoying our gifted Barra wings. Shirley tells me “she wanted to buy a live muddie from a local who sells his catch each day, but she doesn’t know how to cook it”. I tell her “I’ll cook it for you” she beams. “Ray come here” she calls to her husband, he pops his head out their van, “this is Jane, she says she will cook our crab”. The next morning, they drive off early, and she returns full of excitement with a large, live mud crab, tied up with string and hands it to me. I’m struck by the serendipity of this darling, older woman, with such a simple desire, being camped right next to us, she reminds me of my own mum and the fisherman’s mum too and I happily cook the crab for her. The following day after time at the beach fishing, we return to the campground to find their caravan gone and a handwritten note left on my table; “Thanks for your friendship and for cooking the crab. Ray stuffed up our booking and we couldn’t get another night. Safe travels – Shirley & Ray". I smiled.

Three nights camping at Karumba Point offered a reprieve from the driving and then we are off again, with still a heavy slog of distance to slay. Over the next three days we cover 1,659 kilometres with not much to report but overnight stays in 24hr free camps, crossing of the border from Queensland into the Northern Territory and realising we have grossly underestimated the stretch we need to conquer. We've seen various parts of the Northern Territory previously, so our eyes are firmly fixed on reaching Western Australia and the Kimberley. However, tired and at the end of our driving capacity, we stop again, as we arrive in Mataranka, NT and camp in Elsey National Park for another three night stay allowing us time to recuperate.

It’s very hot here in Mataranka, we are away from the coast and in croc country, so not many options for a cool off swim. A visit to Bitter Springs, a natural thermal pool, fed from an underground spring brings some relief, although a warm swim, think 34°C, is not what we were aiming for, however it was naturally beautiful and sufficed. It was here we received difficult news from my brother’s family back home, which will mark our days with grief for some time. Finding ourselves halfway across The Savannah Way; our hearts are now divided between pressing on to explore the Kimberley and wanting to jump on a plane and fly home to be with family.

Emerald Falls, Mareeba a dirt road with corrugations on the drive in. Shaded picnic areas at the car park and an easy walk up to the top of the falls. We had an icy swim at the lower creek.
Millaa Millaa Falls & The Waterfall Circuit gorgeous collection of waterfalls on a sealed circuit road, a stone's throw drive from Cairns, my favourite was Millaa Millaa Falls.
Henrietta Creek, Wooroonooran NP a pretty and quiet campground on the edge of the creek, bookings online through the NP, beware of the leeches.
Cobbold Gorge a little out of the way, a one hour detour on a dusty, corrugated road to visit this gorge. Wonderfully equipped campground, and stunning gorge especially seen on a paddle board tour.
Karumba Point Sunset Caravan Park a fun place to stay if you like to fish, talk to people who like to fish and watch magnificent sunsets over the water at the beach just across the road.
Barkly Homestead an oasis in the outback, we stop in for an overnight stay and a hot meal in the restaurant.
Elsey National Park a remote campground, a 10k drive down a dirt road with hot showers, a flushing toilet and no mobile phone coverage. We did the 8k walk along the foreshore of the Roper River to Mataranka Falls - but you guessed it - NO swimming due to crocs. Take plenty of drinking water.
Bitter Springs  Swimming in the crystal clear natural thermal pools is the main attraction at Bitter Springs. The path is accessible from the carpark to the swimming hole. There are stairs with handrails leading into the water. Take a pool noodle to float.

Postcards from the Road - The Daintree, QLD

Days on the Road 60 Traveled 5162ks Campgrounds 12
Temp 15 - 24°C Waterhole Temp 14°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 | Barramundi (under-sized) 1 | Golden Snapper 1 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1 | Prawn Rolls 3 |

Like a couple of kids on our way to the corner shop for a bag of sweets, we followed The Great Barrier Reef Drive into The Daintree Rainforest. Our excitement levels peaked as we approached a place we had never been before, and the first glimpses of this rugged, capacious coastline, where the rainforest meets the reef, did not disappoint.
 
The Daintree River is broad and beautiful, a UNESCO world heritage listed region filled with nature in its raw and untouched state. Saltwater crocodiles dominate, sunning themselves on the banks, effortlessly slipping into the water, only evident by their periscope eyes moving slowly across the surface as predators do, watching, waiting, their immensity submerged. I’m thankful for the significantly high sided boat we have chartered and our local guide, James who understands the necessity to Be Croc-wise. We cruise the river, the fisherman are after Barramundi, I’m mesmerised by the bird life; Great-billed Heron sit on tree stumps on the mangrove-lined watercourse, a Great Egret flies overhead, expansive white wings it dives into the water and spears its prey. Our guide throws a cast net and collects live bait, we race from one location to another on the river where the Barra just might be on the bite, all the while I’m in my own world, at peace in my surroundings far from the frenzied fisherman chasing a catch. We, well I should say the fisherman, lands a Barra but it’s just under-size, we take a photo and return him to the river. Between them they hook onto a couple of larger ones, who are too clever, spooling line and diving down under submerged logs. They bust off and the big fish manage to get away, which of course will make the best fishing tale for another day. The fisherman hooks, fights and lands a Golden Snapper (also known as a Finger-mark Bream), a premium table fish, highly prized for their taste, we keep him to take back to camp. Pan fried with butter, lemon and camp made mayonnaise it lives up to all the hype.

Each day we walk from our campsite along Wonga Beach, eat a glut of sweet passionfruit from roadside stalls for only $2 a laden bag, and in the evenings, true to the tropics it rains as we lay snug in our camper. Spotting the striking, iridescent blue Ulysses Butterfly in flight, in the wild was quite surreal. One of Tropical North Queensland’s most distinctive and unique butterfly species is so elusive it is hard to photograph, and far better to just watch and wonder as it flutters by.

Venturing further north, we cross The Daintree River on the Daintree Ferry and follow the narrow road to Cape Tribulation. The aftermath of Cyclone Jasper that hit in December 2023 is very evident, major flooding caused landslips leaving part of the road collapsed and progress is slow with only one lane open as they rebuild. The panorama from Mount Alexandra Lookout over the coast, taking in the point where The Daintree River opens to the sea is spectacular. We pop into Cow Bay Beach (no cows in sight!) for a walk along this secluded part of the coast and then travel on to our campsite at Cape Tribulation Camping. Setting up amid the rainforest on the beachfront was so peaceful, although our position under the large trees became a little unnerving when the rain and wind came in at night, the pelting rain was loud on our hopefully resilient canvas roof. Beach walks, collecting shells, crocodile spotting, icy waterhole swims inland, mangrove board walks and exotic ice cream flavours; coconut, black sapote, wattle seed and strawberry make up our days at the Cape.

Our booking for a half day trip to snorkel the reef was disappointingly cancelled last minute due to high winds and Emmagen Creek a favourite water hole for locals to cool off, was a muddy mire to visit post the cyclone. Although we loved the remoteness, the winding forest lined roads, the green everywhere, and the hidden beaches, we were frustrated to not be able to swim in the sea in croc country. The wood fired pizzas at the camp ground cafe in the evenings were very good, however by the end of our five nights here, we’d reached our quota of wet nights in the camper and were ready to move on to drier places. Hot and dry, seemed more enticing than wet and soggy, or is it simply the grass will be greener on the other side?
We were about to find out.

Daintree Beach Resort  we stayed on a powered site in this camp ground, right on Wonga Beach in the heart of The Daintree Rainforest.
James Beiztel Charter a day on the water with this long time local, chasing fish and marvelling at the magnificence of The Daintree River.
Daintree Ferry the only way to cross the river to explore Cape Tribulation and the far, far north Queensland destinations.
Cape Tribulation Camping another powered site under a dense canopy of trees, a stone's throw from the beach, wood fired pizzas available in the evenings from the Sandbar Cafe.
Daintree Iceceam Company we went with the Signature Cup of seasonal flavours and sat in the lush tropical gardens with a multitude of other ice cream eaters.
Ocean Safaris half & full day trips to The Great Barrier Reef & Turtle Rock Cafe at Ocean Safaris HQ, where we enjoyed a delish Thai Fish Cake Burger.

Postcards from the Road - Cassowary Coast

Days on the Road 50 Traveled 4085ks Campgrounds 10
Temp 15 - 24°C Water temp 23°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1

Leaving Townsville behind we travelled the Cardwell Forest Drive specifically to swim in the emerald, green waters at Cardwell Spa Pool, which was refreshing and unique. Onwards, along the coconut palm fringed beaches and a myriad of banana plantations and side of the road stalls selling local bananas, we journeyed this quieter stretch of coastline bordered by the Wet Tropics Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. It’s known as the Cassowary Coast from Cardwell to Cairns, aptly named after the endangered cassowary, a large flightless bird prevalent in the region. We spotted just one on the edge of the road slinking off into the bush, it was larger than we anticipated, a male with a striking head dress of colour; teal, cobalt blue and tiger orange, with a bizarre looking walnut brown helmet on top. Signage warned us not to approach the birds; but rather ‘Be Casso-wary’ as they can be aggressive and destructive, maybe they just don’t enjoy tourists chasing them down to take their photo.

Camping at South Mission Beach opposite The Family Group of Islands; including Coombe, Wheeler, Dunk and Bedarra, I sensed a new adventure beckoning. My family had holidayed on Dunk in the 80’s, the last big holiday we did together before my gregarious father died too young, and the nostalgia flooded over me as we watched the gorgeous sunset colours rest on Dunk at golden hour. Early the next morning we hired a small runabout boat from a colourful, local character, who amusingly offered no lengthy safety briefing, but rather plenty of instructions on not ruining his prop on the reefs or the sand peninsula as we approached and anchored on Dunk. Hiking the Dunk Island Circuit was our goal, wandering along long isolated beaches, past the cyclone damaged and now redundant resort, and into the undisturbed rainforest. Beginning at Brammo Bay we headed up the ridge towards the Mount Kootaloo Lookout, then down to Coconut Beach and through vast sections of rainforest for a distance of 10.3km. It was a little bit eerie on this now deserted island, parts of the track were completely overgrown, and for the final couple of kilometres of our trek the weather came in and we were left contending with a descending mist, strong winds and sleeting rain. We hoped our little boat was still waiting for us where we had anchored her three hours before. Gratefully climbing aboard, we set off on the fifteen-minute return ride back to the mainland, traveling over uncomfortably lumpy seas with more than poor visibility.  Our local mate was waiting on the beach with his tractor as our landmark, eager to take his boat off our hands, admittedly a sense of relief rested on us both as we arrived into his capable hands.

A quiet and tamer day followed with a leisurely drive to charming Bingil Bay where we strolled the sands of the bay and I lingered on a simply hung swing by the sea. Lunch at Mission Beach town, a still undeveloped, laid-back vibe of a place, (for how long is anyone’s guess) proved a bit tricky. Being a Monday, most eateries were closed, but thankfully we stumbled on Shanti Café serving the most delicious home-made pies and banana smoothies. Later in the afternoon the fisherman had some success off the kayak, catching school mackerel and cobia, and I stepped up to do some last minute fileting, before we embraced the ominous camp pack up preparations for our departure north the next day.

On the road early we took a short detour to stop at secluded Etty Bay for what would be our final beach swim for a while. The time had come to Be Croc-Wise. Etty Bay was well worth the distraction, and gave us a chance to grab a beachside bowl of cereal and fruit from our camp kitchen, before heading on to Cairns. A fleeting glimpse of the holiday destinations of Cairns, Palm Cove, and Ellis Beach, allowed us to grab some last-minute groceries before continuing along the edge of the coast on the Great Barrier Reef Tourist Drive. Rex Lookout boasted 180 degree panoramic views of the Coral Sea before the road winds and narrows as you journey on into The Daintree.

Cardwell Spa Pool a pretty drive in, along a forest lined unsealed road with unique emerald green pools to take a refreshing dip in.
Tasman Holiday Park - South Mission Beach we camped here on a powered site just across the road from South Mission Beach with access to The family group of Islands.
Dunk Island Circuit a moderate 10.3km loop trail, take drinking water, snacks and a wind/rain jacket for the tropical climate and expect butterflies.
Shanti Cafe delicious home made pies and fruit smoothies in the centre of Mission Beach town.

image queensland.com

Postcards on the Road - Magnetic Island, QLD

Days on the Road 46 Traveled 3871 ks Campgrounds 9
Temp 15 - 25°C Water temp 23°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1

A giant pink granite rock known as Castle Hill towers over you as you drive into the centre of the city of Townsville. It loomed as we sat at the Magnetic Island Ferries terminal, eating a scrumptious soft roll filled with QLD prawns and a tangy seafood sauce, whilst waiting to board our passage over to the island. Smooth waters made for an easy crossing, just half an hour on the water and we were transported from the coastal city with a large seaport to the beauty and tranquillity of Nelly Bay, Magnetic Island where the pace slowed another notch.

Our days on ‘Maggie’ as the locals call the island were immersed in nature. Sleepy koalas snacked on gum leaves, settled in the trees above our camper each afternoon, and early morning bird calls ushered in the new day for us, ready to wake or not. Our campsite was well located, an easy few minutes’ walk to Horseshoe Bay for the fisherman, and a ten minute drive to The Forts Walk car park, where walking tracks to many gorgeous bays abounded. Just a twenty minute drive to the other end of the island to Picnic Bay and the track out to West Point for sunset, Picnic Bay has a couple of restaurants, a cafe and a brewery. We had received a hot tip about a decadent prawn roll at the local cafe, which further fueled out interest in taking a drive to Picnic Bay. We enjoyed a prawn roll lunch on the waterfront and then a lovely walk along the esplanade, in the shade of the giant fig trees. For the energetic a climb to Picnic Bay Lookout begins at the end of the beach. On the return drive to our camp, we stopped off for a refreshing swim at Alma Bay, and sat on the beach soaking up the afternoon glow from the final rays of the sun.

We frequented the walking tracks to magnificent bays and captivating snorkelling on the fringing reefs at Arthur Bay and Florence Bay. In between these bays are beautiful views from Arthur Bay Lookout. A hike to Radical Bay in the heat of the day revealed a secluded piece of paradise, with huge boulders at either end of the shore, palm trees and hoop pines growing together in this tropical haven. We were rewarded with a cooling swim in the shallows as the tide receded, and encountered a super-sized coral cod who had no idea about personal space and his uncomfortably large teeth.

The fisherman had his own delights, landing a whopping yellow fin tuna* whilst fishing off the kayak in Horseshoe Bay, as the locals watched from the shore. Further success followed with another catch of mud crab in the pots in the nearby mangroves. Suddenly, I was googling how to fillet such a large tuna, pulling out the retro orange wok to steam the crab and throwing together a ginger, shallot and soy dipping sauce for a mouth-watering sashimi. We invited a fellow camper we had befriended for dinner, and we all got stuck in. Mud Crab with camp made mayonnaise, the freshest Tuna two ways: sashimi, sushi rice, with seasonal greens, and pan-seared sesame crusted tuna. It proved to be the most extravagant of feasts and our new friend suggested she could happily follow us wherever we were going.

A garden under the sea.
I listened to my calm breath as I moved along the surface of the water, my mind was a buzz observing the steady activity in this garden under the sea. A vast array of fish, big and small, solo and in schools, darted to and fro, weaving through swaying soft corals, seemingly playing hide and seek in a coral playground. Everywhere I gazed I saw recognisable patterns, fish dressed in fish nets, leopard spots, pin stripes and rainbow shades, eye catching coral of psychedelic yellow and green clusters, lavender-like bushes, large patchwork quilts, brain-like masses and waving sponges. The chef in me began to see corals so similar in appearance to leafy lettuces, offal-like brain, tripe and sweetbread, bunches of kale, asparagus spears, monster cauliflowers, exotic mushrooms and even translucent lychees. I was lost in another world beneath me.

Magnetic Island Ferries – the ferry to take if you are taking a car, camper, boat etc. to the island.
Selina – camping options are minimal on the island, this was a popular place for international backpackers, we may have been the oldest young people camped there!
Lava Lava Café - Qld Prawn roll: poached QLD prawns, house dressing, baby cos lettuce, lime on fresh baked baguette with a side of potato chips. If it had been walking distance from our camp I may have had one for lunch everyday!
The Forts Walk carpark is where the walking tracks start from to visit Arthur & Florence Bay and Arthur Bay Lookout. From Horseshoe Bay you can walk into Balding Bay and Radical Bay.

* whopping Yellow Fin Tuna was 90cm long and 7.9kg

Postcards from the Road - Whitsundays, QLD

Days on the Road 40 Traveled 3672 ks Campgrounds 8
Temp 20 - 28°C Water temp 24°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 |
Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1
Mud Crabs 4 | Apple Pies 1

Our journey north continued with a series of short stops along the east coast that paid worthwhile dividends. Tannum Sands delivered super-sized mud crabs into Mr G’s baited pots, and Gladstone meant another kilo of our new favourite - Endeavour prawns, cooked for $17 a kilo from the good value for your money seafood co-op. In Rockhampton, I unearthed a bright orange wok at the local Lifeline store for just $10, purchased to steam the said super-sized muddies, as my existing pot in the camp pantry was simply not big enough!

Approaching Sarina the road weaved through walls of sugar cane crowned with feather duster like flowers, ripe for harvest. Cane and the railways that carry the harvest would become a regular roadside feature well into far north Queensland. Not far past Mackay we took a brief detour off the highway to drive through Cape Hillsborough National Park, discovering a potential ‘next trip’ campground to visit. We carried on up the Hibiscus Coast, by-passing Proserpine and arriving in Airlie Beach. The following day was spent exploring nearby Cape Gloucester and Dingo Beach. Our planned lunch at the Dingo Beach Hotel failed miserably by a mere few minutes; as we went to order the coral trout we were reminded again ‘sorry love the kitchen closes at 2pm’ this happens without compromise in most regional places. We had a beer instead.

Now six weeks on the road, the following morning we boarded a ferry at Port of Airlie to spend a cheeky week ‘out of the camper’ on Hamilton Island. We pounced upon this rare and priceless opportunity to spend a week with our adult kids, in a location that turned out to be paradise. Warm sunshiny days, simple meals together, a hike to Passage Peak and a day trip to Whitehaven Beach, on Whitsunday Island, including walking up to Hill Inlet lookout, where the colours of the water and white sand intermingled are beyond words, made for lasting memories for us all. A chance encounter for me with a sea turtle whilst snorkelling in the shallows at Catseye Beach, left me more than content.

Farewelling the off-spring to return home to the wet, cold Sydney and Canberra winters, we pressed on to warmer places, our next stop Bowen the town at the top of the Whitsundays. Three nights in a quiet little campground by the sea, Bowen was a surprise package of scenic bays, beautiful boulders, coconut palms and mesmerising snorkelling only moments from the beach. The Cape Edgecumb Walking Trail was a wonderful way to explore the beauty of Horseshoe, Murrays and Rose Bay. The safe swimming, scenic paddle boarding and the beginning of the really big fish catches for the fisherman, saw Bowen land high on the list of places to come back to one day. Reeling in a whopping Golden Trevally meant camp made Ceviche at sunset, an Orange Spotted Cod pan fried in butter made for exceptional eating and an irresistible apple pie with a crumbly sugar crusted top from the local bakery was memorable.

Tannum Sands Discovery Park – we camped here, just a couple minutes away from the tidal creek where the big mud crabs are a plenty.
Cape Hillsborough Nature Tourist Park – for beachfront camping in the serenity of the National Park.
Cape Gloucester & Dingo Beach – were stunning, hidden gems with camping nearby at Hydeaway Bay. We enjoyed a seafood lunch with magnificent views at Monte’s, or if you’re punctual lunch at Dingo Beach Hotel until 2pm sharp.
Cruise Whitsundays will take you from Port of Airlie to Hamilton Island & day trips to Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island.
Bowen
Tropical Beach Caravan Park a quiet location to base yourself to explore the many beautiful bays of Bowen and a cracking spot to sit at sunset.
Cape Edgecumb Walking Trail take plenty of drinking water and give yourself a generous amount of time, the track is in full sun and is poorly signposted.
Jochheims Cafe & Bakery for delicious pies, particularly the apple pie, which you can buy by the slice or like us buy a whole pie.

Postcards from the Road - 1770 & Agnes Water, QLD

Days on the Road 26 | Traveled 2065 ks | Campgrounds 5
Temp 17°C - 26°C | Water temp 22°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 |
Mud Crabs 2 | Flounder 1 |

As we rolled into the town of Seventeen Seventy, we looked at each other and knew it was going to be a special place. The road wound along the coast for the final few minutes of our journey, and on arrival at the campground we discovered the beachfront site allocated to us was over and above what we had imagined or expected. That evening and for the six to follow we watched the sun sink low from the comfort of our camp chairs, a kaleidoscope of colours a daily delight. Gradually each afternoon, the beach became lined with people and their chairs, seeking to enjoy the beauty of the last moments of the day. A chance to reset, be thankful for another day lived, breathed and treasured, and share a sundowner together without a care.

Our time in this seaside village allowed us to truly catch our breath. We’d been trying to find our stride with the camper trailer life. The first few weeks spent traveling long distances and exploring new places, we were now searching for the balance between go and slow. It was in this slower-paced town that Captain James Cook first sailed into in 1770, that we managed to unwind another cog, have a much desired hot shower, wash the bed linen, meet some lovely fellow campers and just be.

Coconut Palms, small Grass Yellow butterflies, coastal bush walks and capacious waterways adorn this peninsula, and the tropical vegetation begins to merge with the Australian bushland as we creep up the coast of the grand state of Queensland.

Town of Seventeen Seventy
We camped at 1770 Camping Ground an old school place with basic amenities, friendly managers and million dollar views. Do your best to snag a beachfront site.
Round Hill Lookout Walk enter from the end of the campground, a scenic walk on a bush track, passing through a section of rainforest and boardwalks and a monument to Captain James Cook. As the track winds up higher to the lookouts and the views become even more spectacular, an abundance of butterflies flutter by.
Eurimbula National Park we drove the 4WD track out to the Eurimbula Creek camping area to discover pristine beaches and a meandering creek to kayak and paddle board on.
Agnes Water Beach just a ten minute drive from 1770, is a patrolled surf beach. The Holidays Cafe in the Agnes Waters Caravan Park is open to the public for breakfast and lunch until 1.30pm. Water views and tasty casual dining, we enjoyed a relaxed lunch by the ocean.
Ron’s Fruit & Vege garden fresh, pick your own fruit and vege from long time farmer and gardener Ron - what a dream, picked my own fresh lettuce, rocket, spinach, herbs, tomatoes and bananas to add to our stores. Open 8.30am -4.30pm / Closed Mondays / Cash only.
Agnes Wholefoods another timely find to top up the camp pantry.
On our final night (and because Mr G had, had poor fishing success in 1770) we treated ourselves to a night out at Round Hill Pizza and 1770 Gelato Co both were excellent.

The first photo of this postcard was taken and gifted to us by a fellow camper; Mr G and me having a sunset paddle board together on our final night in Seventeen Seventy. ♡

Postcards from the Road - Burrum Coast, QLD

Days on the Road 20 | Traveled 1859 ks | Campgrounds 4
Temp 13°C - 26°C | Water temp 22°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 |
Mud Crabs 2 |

Burrum Coast National Park, QLD
After a five hour drive north, our first remote, off grid campsite of the road trip proved a little difficult for us to find. As the daylight faded, so did our optimism. According to our directions we had the choice of either a twenty minute unknown dirt road or a beach access entry, both requiring a high clearance 4WD. We are prepared for such, however, we (and the maps app we were following) were falling short of finding either track and we certainly didn’t want to be doing the access in the dark!

We remain super grateful to the kind local who stopped to help point us in the right direction to the beach access track. He even followed us onto the beach to make sure we didn’t get bogged in the soft sand, and reassured us the sand along the beach was ‘hard as’ and ‘we’d be sweet’. We were wishing we had his confidence and bravado. ‘Drive down the beach and look out for the picnic table on the right just past the point, the entry track will be around there’ he offered.

Completely unaware beach access is tidal, best at mid-low tide, on this occassion fortune favoured the brave and the tide was suitable. Down the beach we headed, how far we weren’t sure, ‘Oh picnic table where are you at?’ we wondered. And then moments before we lost hope, we saw the table, and the unmarked track, cautiously we navigated the soft sand entry off the beach onto the track that led to our campsite right on dusk. We were stretched, relieved, and a little rocked by what could have been.

The days that followed immersed in the simplicity only nature can offer we explored; with long beach walks, paddle boarding our way to our first catch of Mud Crab in the mangroves at Theodolite Creek, kayaking at Burrum Point to land Spotted Mackerel, enjoyed beach driving, endured cold showers, marvelled at starry skies and relished early nights. In addition to our local catch of seafood, we bought a bag of cooked Endeavour prawns from the seafood trailer in town and spent four days at our campsite eating like kings!

Crumbed fish sandwiches, Crab cooked in seawater, sweet, salty Endeavour prawns & Spotted Mackerel pan fried in butter, with an eschallot, cherry tomato, Kalamata olive and basil salsa.

Simply brilliant!

We camped at Burrum Point Camping area in the Burrum Coast National Park on the Bundaberg | Fraser Coast & the Seafood Trailer is located out the front of the Woodgate Bakery.

Postcards from the Road - North Stradbroke Island, QLD

Days on the Road 14 | Traveled 1416 ks | Campgrounds 3
Temp 11°C - 25°C | Water temp 24°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7

Yes, butter to my bread, basil to my tomato, rosemary to my lamb…but rain to my camping, just does not hold the same romance. Speaking of bread we stopped off in Tweed Heads at the Bread Social to grab a loaf of seeded sourdough before proceeding north into Queensland. The rain drizzled as we entered the sunshine state, and the misty showers persisted for what was a rather drab ferry crossing from Cleveland to the port at Dunwich on North Stradbroke Island, QLD. Fortunately it did not dampen our sense of adventure. Graciously the skies cleared enough for us to set up camp, and once settled we enjoyed a twilight stroll on Home Beach, where we were treated to a glorious sunset over Adder Rock. That evening it rained cats and dogs and possibly a few native birds, however cosy in our little camper we laughed and only temporarily thought about the large comfortable home we had left behind to have this adventure.

‘Straddie’ as the locals call it packs a lot into a small inhabited space. Our capacity to 4WD drive onto the vast beaches here enabled us to fully explore the more remote places. Despite the gloomy start, it has been a glut of sunshiny days, beach fishing, salty swims, long walks, beach picnics and a vibrant palette of colours on show as the sun goes down at the end of each day. The nights have been colder than we anticipated, much gratitude for the couple of blankets I threw in at the last minute just in case and the Possum Merino socks our dear friend Silvia gifted us for the road, that have kept our tootsies warm in the evenings.

An abundance of fresh caught bream led to a camp made crumbed bream burger and the colder weather inspired a one pan chicken fried rice in the camp kitchen.

North Stradbroke Island
Minjerribah Camping - we chose Adder Rock Camping Ground - a short walk to Home Beach and Adder Rock Beach, and a quick drive to the 4WD access track to Flinders Beach & Amity Point.
Ocean views from many campsites & three minute hot showers!
North Gorge Walk - an easy board walk with some stairs, spectacular views of the rugged, exposed coastline north and south ~ about 1.6km loop. Take a jacket the southerly wind blows hard.
Main Beach - 4WD access at George Nothling Drive - long beach 4WD driving and more importantly collecting pipis for bait for the fisherman
Point Lookout - sunny place to sit on the headland, spectacular sunrises & dolphin & whale watching with gelato available just across the road
Frenchman’s Beach - a lot of stairs down to a secluded beach, lovely long beach walk, and in the protected south corner, potential for an un-patrolled dip in the ocean (for the surf aware, strong swimmers only)
Deadman’s Beach - we walked part of the Mooloomba Loop down to the picnic area and beach.
Adder Rock Beach - locals and campers flock here at dusk to be mesmerised by the colours of the sky as another day closes. This is THE place to be at sunset, beverage in hand.

The Prawn Shack fresh seafood and highly acclaimed prawn rolls. We scored a kilo of small tiger prawns, salty and sweet and made our own prawn roll back at camp.

The Blue Room for smoothies and home made carrot cake with a view, you may have to jostle a little for a spot on the sunny front deck
The Beach Hotel - Bistro & Waves Bar lunch or dinner with large outdoor beer garden that faces the ocean. We had the Grilled Moreton Bay Bugs with Garlic, herbs & fennel butter sauce, why wouldn’t you with Moreton Bay just across the water.