Postcards from the Road - Cassowary Coast

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Days on the Road 50 Traveled 4085ks Campgrounds 10
Temp 15 - 24°C Water temp 23°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1

Leaving Townsville behind we travelled the Cardwell Forest Drive specifically to swim in the emerald, green waters at Cardwell Spa Pool, which was refreshing and unique. Onwards, along the coconut palm fringed beaches and a myriad of banana plantations and side of the road stalls selling local bananas, we journeyed this quieter stretch of coastline bordered by the Wet Tropics Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. It’s known as the Cassowary Coast from Cardwell to Cairns, aptly named after the endangered cassowary, a large flightless bird prevalent in the region. We spotted just one on the edge of the road slinking off into the bush, it was larger than we anticipated, a male with a striking head dress of colour; teal, cobalt blue and tiger orange, with a bizarre looking walnut brown helmet on top. Signage warned us not to approach the birds; but rather ‘Be Casso-wary’ as they can be aggressive and destructive, maybe they just don’t enjoy tourists chasing them down to take their photo.

Camping at South Mission Beach opposite The Family Group of Islands; including Coombe, Wheeler, Dunk and Bedarra, I sensed a new adventure beckoning. My family had holidayed on Dunk in the 80’s, the last big holiday we did together before my gregarious father died too young, and the nostalgia flooded over me as we watched the gorgeous sunset colours rest on Dunk at golden hour. Early the next morning we hired a small runabout boat from a colourful, local character, who amusingly offered no lengthy safety briefing, but rather plenty of instructions on not ruining his prop on the reefs or the sand peninsula as we approached and anchored on Dunk. Hiking the Dunk Island Circuit was our goal, wandering along long isolated beaches, past the cyclone damaged and now redundant resort, and into the undisturbed rainforest. Beginning at Brammo Bay we headed up the ridge towards the Mount Kootaloo Lookout, then down to Coconut Beach and through vast sections of rainforest for a distance of 10.3km. It was a little bit eerie on this now deserted island, parts of the track were completely overgrown, and for the final couple of kilometres of our trek the weather came in and we were left contending with a descending mist, strong winds and sleeting rain. We hoped our little boat was still waiting for us where we had anchored her three hours before. Gratefully climbing aboard, we set off on the fifteen-minute return ride back to the mainland, traveling over uncomfortably lumpy seas with more than poor visibility.  Our local mate was waiting on the beach with his tractor as our landmark, eager to take his boat off our hands, admittedly a sense of relief rested on us both as we arrived into his capable hands.

A quiet and tamer day followed with a leisurely drive to charming Bingil Bay where we strolled the sands of the bay and I lingered on a simply hung swing by the sea. Lunch at Mission Beach town, a still undeveloped, laid-back vibe of a place, (for how long is anyone’s guess) proved a bit tricky. Being a Monday, most eateries were closed, but thankfully we stumbled on Shanti Café serving the most delicious home-made pies and banana smoothies. Later in the afternoon the fisherman had some success off the kayak, catching school mackerel and cobia, and I stepped up to do some last minute fileting, before we embraced the ominous camp pack up preparations for our departure north the next day.

On the road early we took a short detour to stop at secluded Etty Bay for what would be our final beach swim for a while. The time had come to Be Croc-Wise. Etty Bay was well worth the distraction, and gave us a chance to grab a beachside bowl of cereal and fruit from our camp kitchen, before heading on to Cairns. A fleeting glimpse of the holiday destinations of Cairns, Palm Cove, and Ellis Beach, allowed us to grab some last-minute groceries before continuing along the edge of the coast on the Great Barrier Reef Tourist Drive. Rex Lookout boasted 180 degree panoramic views of the Coral Sea before the road winds and narrows as you journey on into The Daintree.

Cardwell Spa Pool a pretty drive in, along a forest lined unsealed road with unique emerald green pools to take a refreshing dip in.
Tasman Holiday Park - South Mission Beach we camped here on a powered site just across the road from South Mission Beach with access to The family group of Islands.
Dunk Island Circuit a moderate 10.3km loop trail, take drinking water, snacks and a wind/rain jacket for the tropical climate and expect butterflies.
Shanti Cafe delicious home made pies and fruit smoothies in the centre of Mission Beach town.