Postcards on the Road - Magnetic Island, QLD

Days on the Road 46 Traveled 3871 ks Campgrounds 9
Temp 15 - 25°C Water temp 23°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1

A giant pink granite rock known as Castle Hill towers over you as you drive into the centre of the city of Townsville. It loomed as we sat at the Magnetic Island Ferries terminal, eating a scrumptious soft roll filled with QLD prawns and a tangy seafood sauce, whilst waiting to board our passage over to the island. Smooth waters made for an easy crossing, just half an hour on the water and we were transported from the coastal city with a large seaport to the beauty and tranquillity of Nelly Bay, Magnetic Island where the pace slowed another notch.

Our days on ‘Maggie’ as the locals call the island were immersed in nature. Sleepy koalas snacked on gum leaves, settled in the trees above our camper each afternoon, and early morning bird calls ushered in the new day for us, ready to wake or not. Our campsite was well located, an easy few minutes’ walk to Horseshoe Bay for the fisherman, and a ten minute drive to The Forts Walk car park, where walking tracks to many gorgeous bays abounded. Just a twenty minute drive to the other end of the island to Picnic Bay and the track out to West Point for sunset, Picnic Bay has a couple of restaurants, a cafe and a brewery. We had received a hot tip about a decadent prawn roll at the local cafe, which further fueled out interest in taking a drive to Picnic Bay. We enjoyed a prawn roll lunch on the waterfront and then a lovely walk along the esplanade, in the shade of the giant fig trees. For the energetic a climb to Picnic Bay Lookout begins at the end of the beach. On the return drive to our camp, we stopped off for a refreshing swim at Alma Bay, and sat on the beach soaking up the afternoon glow from the final rays of the sun.

We frequented the walking tracks to magnificent bays and captivating snorkelling on the fringing reefs at Arthur Bay and Florence Bay. In between these bays are beautiful views from Arthur Bay Lookout. A hike to Radical Bay in the heat of the day revealed a secluded piece of paradise, with huge boulders at either end of the shore, palm trees and hoop pines growing together in this tropical haven. We were rewarded with a cooling swim in the shallows as the tide receded, and encountered a super-sized coral cod who had no idea about personal space and his uncomfortably large teeth.

The fisherman had his own delights, landing a whopping yellow fin tuna* whilst fishing off the kayak in Horseshoe Bay, as the locals watched from the shore. Further success followed with another catch of mud crab in the pots in the nearby mangroves. Suddenly, I was googling how to fillet such a large tuna, pulling out the retro orange wok to steam the crab and throwing together a ginger, shallot and soy dipping sauce for a mouth-watering sashimi. We invited a fellow camper we had befriended for dinner, and we all got stuck in. Mud Crab with camp made mayonnaise, the freshest Tuna two ways: sashimi, sushi rice, with seasonal greens, and pan-seared sesame crusted tuna. It proved to be the most extravagant of feasts and our new friend suggested she could happily follow us wherever we were going.

A garden under the sea.
I listened to my calm breath as I moved along the surface of the water, my mind was a buzz observing the steady activity in this garden under the sea. A vast array of fish, big and small, solo and in schools, darted to and fro, weaving through swaying soft corals, seemingly playing hide and seek in a coral playground. Everywhere I gazed I saw recognisable patterns, fish dressed in fish nets, leopard spots, pin stripes and rainbow shades, eye catching coral of psychedelic yellow and green clusters, lavender-like bushes, large patchwork quilts, brain-like masses and waving sponges. The chef in me began to see corals so similar in appearance to leafy lettuces, offal-like brain, tripe and sweetbread, bunches of kale, asparagus spears, monster cauliflowers, exotic mushrooms and even translucent lychees. I was lost in another world beneath me.

Magnetic Island Ferries – the ferry to take if you are taking a car, camper, boat etc. to the island.
Selina – camping options are minimal on the island, this was a popular place for international backpackers, we may have been the oldest young people camped there!
Lava Lava Café - Qld Prawn roll: poached QLD prawns, house dressing, baby cos lettuce, lime on fresh baked baguette with a side of potato chips. If it had been walking distance from our camp I may have had one for lunch everyday!
The Forts Walk carpark is where the walking tracks start from to visit Arthur & Florence Bay and Arthur Bay Lookout. From Horseshoe Bay you can walk into Balding Bay and Radical Bay.

* whopping Yellow Fin Tuna was 90cm long and 7.9kg