Postcards from the Road - The Daintree, QLD

Days on the Road 60 Traveled 5162ks Campgrounds 12
Temp 15 - 24°C Waterhole Temp 14°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 16 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 | Barramundi (under-sized) 1 | Golden Snapper 1 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1 | Prawn Rolls 3 |

Like a couple of kids on our way to the corner shop for a bag of sweets, we followed The Great Barrier Reef Drive into The Daintree Rainforest. Our excitement levels peaked as we approached a place we had never been before, and the first glimpses of this rugged, capacious coastline, where the rainforest meets the reef, did not disappoint.
 
The Daintree River is broad and beautiful, a UNESCO world heritage listed region filled with nature in its raw and untouched state. Saltwater crocodiles dominate, sunning themselves on the banks, effortlessly slipping into the water, only evident by their periscope eyes moving slowly across the surface as predators do, watching, waiting, their immensity submerged. I’m thankful for the significantly high sided boat we have chartered and our local guide, James who understands the necessity to Be Croc-wise. We cruise the river, the fisherman are after Barramundi, I’m mesmerised by the bird life; Great-billed Heron sit on tree stumps on the mangrove-lined watercourse, a Great Egret flies overhead, expansive white wings it dives into the water and spears its prey. Our guide throws a cast net and collects live bait, we race from one location to another on the river where the Barra just might be on the bite, all the while I’m in my own world, at peace in my surroundings far from the frenzied fisherman chasing a catch. We, well I should say the fisherman, lands a Barra but it’s just under-size, we take a photo and return him to the river. Between them they hook onto a couple of larger ones, who are too clever, spooling line and diving down under submerged logs. They bust off and the big fish manage to get away, which of course will make the best fishing tale for another day. The fisherman hooks, fights and lands a Golden Snapper (also known as a Finger-mark Bream), a premium table fish, highly prized for their taste, we keep him to take back to camp. Pan fried with butter, lemon and camp made mayonnaise it lives up to all the hype.

Each day we walk from our campsite along Wonga Beach, eat a glut of sweet passionfruit from roadside stalls for only $2 a laden bag, and in the evenings, true to the tropics it rains as we lay snug in our camper. Spotting the striking, iridescent blue Ulysses Butterfly in flight, in the wild was quite surreal. One of Tropical North Queensland’s most distinctive and unique butterfly species is so elusive it is hard to photograph, and far better to just watch and wonder as it flutters by.

Venturing further north, we cross The Daintree River on the Daintree Ferry and follow the narrow road to Cape Tribulation. The aftermath of Cyclone Jasper that hit in December 2023 is very evident, major flooding caused landslips leaving part of the road collapsed and progress is slow with only one lane open as they rebuild. The panorama from Mount Alexandra Lookout over the coast, taking in the point where The Daintree River opens to the sea is spectacular. We pop into Cow Bay Beach (no cows in sight!) for a walk along this secluded part of the coast and then travel on to our campsite at Cape Tribulation Camping. Setting up amid the rainforest on the beachfront was so peaceful, although our position under the large trees became a little unnerving when the rain and wind came in at night, the pelting rain was loud on our hopefully resilient canvas roof. Beach walks, collecting shells, crocodile spotting, icy waterhole swims inland, mangrove board walks and exotic ice cream flavours; coconut, black sapote, wattle seed and strawberry make up our days at the Cape.

Our booking for a half day trip to snorkel the reef was disappointingly cancelled last minute due to high winds and Emmagen Creek a favourite water hole for locals to cool off, was a muddy mire to visit post the cyclone. Although we loved the remoteness, the winding forest lined roads, the green everywhere, and the hidden beaches, we were frustrated to not be able to swim in the sea in croc country. The wood fired pizzas at the camp ground cafe in the evenings were very good, however by the end of our five nights here, we’d reached our quota of wet nights in the camper and were ready to move on to drier places. Hot and dry, seemed more enticing than wet and soggy, or is it simply the grass will be greener on the other side?
We were about to find out.

Daintree Beach Resort  we stayed on a powered site in this camp ground, right on Wonga Beach in the heart of The Daintree Rainforest.
James Beiztel Charter a day on the water with this long time local, chasing fish and marvelling at the magnificence of The Daintree River.
Daintree Ferry the only way to cross the river to explore Cape Tribulation and the far, far north Queensland destinations.
Cape Tribulation Camping another powered site under a dense canopy of trees, a stone's throw from the beach, wood fired pizzas available in the evenings from the Sandbar Cafe.
Daintree Iceceam Company we went with the Signature Cup of seasonal flavours and sat in the lush tropical gardens with a multitude of other ice cream eaters.
Ocean Safaris half & full day trips to The Great Barrier Reef & Turtle Rock Cafe at Ocean Safaris HQ, where we enjoyed a delish Thai Fish Cake Burger.