Postcards from the Road - The Savannah Way, QLD & NT

Days on the Road 70 Traveled 7526ks Campgrounds 17
Temp 13 - 28°C Waterhole Temp 14°C Thermal Springs 34°C
Catch of fish | Silver Bream 22 | Dusky Flathead 2 | Sand Whiting 7 | Spotted Mackerel 2 | Flounder 1 | Golden Trevally 1 | Orange Spotted Cod 1 | Yellowfin Tuna 1 | School Mackerel 2 | Cobia 1 |
Barramundi (under-sized) 1 | Golden Snapper 1 | Bluenose Salmon 1 |
Mud Crabs 5 | Apple Pies 1 | Prawn Rolls 3 | Barra Wings 1 |

Hitting the milestone of two months on the road and we are done on the east coast. The time has come to head west traversing The Savannah Way; a 3700 kilometre route linking Cairns in Tropical North Queensland via the natural wonders of Australia’s tropical savannahs and the Northern Territory’s Top End with the historic pearling town of Broome in Western Australia’s Kimberley. In short, a blummin long way!

From Cairns we skipped through the Atherton Tablelands, visiting Mareeba for picnic supplies, a walk and a swim at Emerald Falls, an antique store in Atherton and a book shop in Yungaburra, then onto see Babinda Boulders and Millaa Millaa Falls. After a day of driving and stopping to see the sights, an overnight camp in Wooroonooran National Park at Henrietta Creek turned out to be a wet, miserable and leech ridden affair. Not good! Early morning, as we couldn’t wait to leave those leeches, we are back at it and drive through thick mist into Ravenshoe; a quaint town, acclaimed as the highest town in Queensland. As we go we pass by a couple of 24hr FREE camps with toilet facilities, located roadside, they are a revelation to us, and in hindsight would have been a better and drier option for our previous overnight stop. Next time!

The lengthy distance driving is tedious, but also useful time to listen to a couple of audio books and have quiet conversations together. The monotony of the long straight roads and frequent oncoming, car rattling, road trains, demands caution. We share the driving and allow the other to rest to beat the fatigue. Side of the road toasties in the fry pan at rest stops or purchased from roadhouses when we stop for fuel are our sustenance. They are a safe bet in these far-flung places where very little fresh produce is available.

Taking a one-hour detour down a corrugated, dusty road, we camp overnight at Cobbold Gorge. Here a late afternoon Stand Up Paddle through the gorge is peaceful, and a good night’s rest in our comfy bed, followed by a breakfast of boiled eggs with dippers and the last of our passionfruit supplies, sees us revived and refreshed. Our next stop will be another five hours driving away at Karumba Point, a seaside town on the coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria at the mouth of the Norman River. Fishing is big here, it’s the main reason people come to this remote place, year after year. The campground is brimming with characters, hard core fish chasers, mainly after Barramundi, their day revolves around the catch and the talk of their catch at the fish cleaning tables. I go there to fillet our catch of bream, but really to hear the stories. I’ve heard Barramundi wings, (often discarded when filleting) are delicious eating, I boldly ask around the tables “are you keeping the wings?” as the Barra filleting happens. “Do you want them?” one fella responds “I have plenty” he generously shares. Gratefully, I nod yes, and he obliges. Dinner that night is the second revelation of The Savannah Way.

The couple camping alongside us are endearingly friendly, she spots the fisherman’s’ crab pots stacked near our camper and is on for the chat about her love of mud crab. It’s a moment to return a favour after so enjoying our gifted Barra wings. Shirley tells me “she wanted to buy a live muddie from a local who sells his catch each day, but she doesn’t know how to cook it”. I tell her “I’ll cook it for you” she beams. “Ray come here” she calls to her husband, he pops his head out their van, “this is Jane, she says she will cook our crab”. The next morning, they drive off early, and she returns full of excitement with a large, live mud crab, tied up with string and hands it to me. I’m struck by the serendipity of this darling, older woman, with such a simple desire, being camped right next to us, she reminds me of my own mum and the fisherman’s mum too and I happily cook the crab for her. The following day after time at the beach fishing, we return to the campground to find their caravan gone and a handwritten note left on my table; “Thanks for your friendship and for cooking the crab. Ray stuffed up our booking and we couldn’t get another night. Safe travels – Shirley & Ray". I smiled.

Three nights camping at Karumba Point offered a reprieve from the driving and then we are off again, with still a heavy slog of distance to slay. Over the next three days we cover 1,659 kilometres with not much to report but overnight stays in 24hr free camps, crossing of the border from Queensland into the Northern Territory and realising we have grossly underestimated the stretch we need to conquer. We've seen various parts of the Northern Territory previously, so our eyes are firmly fixed on reaching Western Australia and the Kimberley. However, tired and at the end of our driving capacity, we stop again, as we arrive in Mataranka, NT and camp in Elsey National Park for another three night stay allowing us time to recuperate.

It’s very hot here in Mataranka, we are away from the coast and in croc country, so not many options for a cool off swim. A visit to Bitter Springs, a natural thermal pool, fed from an underground spring brings some relief, although a warm swim, think 34°C, is not what we were aiming for, however it was naturally beautiful and sufficed. It was here we received difficult news from my brother’s family back home, which will mark our days with grief for some time. Finding ourselves halfway across The Savannah Way; our hearts are now divided between pressing on to explore the Kimberley and wanting to jump on a plane and fly home to be with family.

Emerald Falls, Mareeba a dirt road with corrugations on the drive in. Shaded picnic areas at the car park and an easy walk up to the top of the falls. We had an icy swim at the lower creek.
Millaa Millaa Falls & The Waterfall Circuit gorgeous collection of waterfalls on a sealed circuit road, a stone's throw drive from Cairns, my favourite was Millaa Millaa Falls.
Henrietta Creek, Wooroonooran NP a pretty and quiet campground on the edge of the creek, bookings online through the NP, beware of the leeches.
Cobbold Gorge a little out of the way, a one hour detour on a dusty, corrugated road to visit this gorge. Wonderfully equipped campground, and stunning gorge especially seen on a paddle board tour.
Karumba Point Sunset Caravan Park a fun place to stay if you like to fish, talk to people who like to fish and watch magnificent sunsets over the water at the beach just across the road.
Barkly Homestead an oasis in the outback, we stop in for an overnight stay and a hot meal in the restaurant.
Elsey National Park a remote campground, a 10k drive down a dirt road with hot showers, a flushing toilet and no mobile phone coverage. We did the 8k walk along the foreshore of the Roper River to Mataranka Falls - but you guessed it - NO swimming due to crocs. Take plenty of drinking water.
Bitter Springs  Swimming in the crystal clear natural thermal pools is the main attraction at Bitter Springs. The path is accessible from the carpark to the swimming hole. There are stairs with handrails leading into the water. Take a pool noodle to float.